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Grey Card In Photography

 
 
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What it is and what is it used for?
Love to Love

it is used to know the aperture opening and and shutter speed to get the desired gray tone in a picture by using a light meter or a built in meter in a camera..

Meter (reflective meter) off the grey card and you will have a 128 in a scale from 0, being black and 255, being white. Of course that is dependent on having in the correct light for the overall exposure...usually the highlight I would think.

Personally I don't give much thought to meters any longer (well only as a jumping off place) using a digital but am more concerned with the histogram to get a good exposure.

yes true and even children today can do photography using digital. no more gray card light meters just point and shoot wella picture. but with film 7 to 10 years ago many are hesitant to be a photographer today lots of photographers.

What is a grey card? It is a board colored grey any even an illustration board sprayed with color gray can be called a grey card. What it is used for? I mentioned it already. It is used in reflective metering where the board is facing the light source and the meter is pointed towards the board. Incident light metering is the opposite of reflective metering whereas the meter is pointed towards the light source. I use a vivitar light meter it's only about 50 dollars. And for flash metering i use a seconic flash meter. The camera is a dummy it doesnt think it is programed only to average the light test it by photographing a white wall in the program mode the result will be gray.

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Not just for the value of the light, but 18 percent gray is a specific color value that can help you determine the other colors in the image for correction purposes.

In shooting color sensitive items for accurate printing, such as jewely and fine art, I used to place a kodak gray card with a strip of color patches in the frame. shoot once, than include the item with the card in the frame, then the item by itself.
If I haven't been there, I'm still planning on going!
If I haven't done it, I've still got time to try!

What a grey card is, is a way to fool your camera's light meter. If you mix every color you can possibly see, you will have an 18% grey tone. This is the base tone of a camera's meter. If you shoot a winter scene using the camera's light meter, the snow is dull. If you shoot a brick of charcoal, it comes out dull. If you take your readings off a 18% grey card, you will get truer colors. Your blacks will be blacker, whites-whiter. A grey card is a great item to have in your case.

Have fun and keep shooting,
Mark H.

Mark is exactly right except for one detail. If you mixed everything together you would get an average reflection of 18%, not a gray tone.

Hi Malcolm;

Just to let you know, all color represents a type of reflection. It would be very expensive to prove my point, and make your local paint store very happy, but you can buy every color possible ov paint and mix them together. You will see approximately the same tone that is on the grey card. this is why the light meter is calibrated to 18% grey.

Hi Mark, I like your photo of Branson City Lights. I do, however, beg to differ with you on what a gray card is. A gray card is a standard of reflectance and has nothing to do with colour. If you were to shoot a gray card on standard daylight film under tungsten lighting you would get a kind of orange colour. Your exposure would be right but the colour would be wrong. You could have a card that is 18% reflective that could be any colour you like. The standard gray card is gray because it matches the mid point gray on a 7 point gray scale and if you read it on a reflection densitometer your RGB readings should be a balanced 25-25-25. Furthermore, as far as photography and lighting go, all colour mixed together evenly is white and no colours mixed together will give you black. This is the law that applies to film, TV, computer monitors and sensors in digital cameras. And, as an aside, the light meter in cameras and in hand held reflective and incidence meters is set by ANSI standards to read at 12-13% reflection. Over the years I have found that the palm of my hand makes a pretty dependable reflectance standard. It's kinda useless for a white balance, though.

I hope that I don't sound confrontational, as I don't mean to be. And I don't wish to start an argument but I have heard the same belief as yours expressed fairly routinely over the years and it is something that has become a bit of an urban myth. I hope that you don't take offense if I suggest that you do some online research.

GREY CARD: a small card painted in grey
WHERE IT COMES FROM ?: Zone system: Ansel Adams created it as a tool for """correct""" exposure in black and white photography and divided the tones of grey in eleven zones Zone 0=Black
Zone I=the darkest grey whitout being black
Zone X=white
In the midle Zone V=a grey that reflects 18% of the light
it was also found out that if you mix all tones of grey you would end up with a 18% grey, so its suposed to be the tone in the midle of the brighters and the darkers

WHATS USED FOR?
if you want an evenly exposed film you point your light meter to a grey card and you will have the correct exposure for the midle tones in that set, of course if you want to burn or darker the photo this neeeds a lot of correction

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zone_system

regards

Oh my gosh! A mortal sin! Using Wikipedia as a source. Wow...the storage place for Urban Legends gets quoted.

Well, for a fact, Ansel Adams did not invent the grey card. It was around before he ever picked up a camera.

Grey cards are not all at 18% either. And a grey card is used differently for black and white than for color films. In fact, film manufacturers sold various grey cards balanced for the color ranges and density factors of their films.

For black and white, in the darkroom, we would make our own grey cards with stepped exposures to get contrast readings before making a final print.

Charles' method is the one I used to use for product shots like jewelry. Malcolm's definitions are the one's I always knew to be right in theory and in practice. I started my career in a print shop, Those were the days when print shops had to have darkrooms. We knew how lights mixed and on the opposite side how colors mixed. Mix every color with light and you get white. Mix every color with inks and you get a muddy greenish black. (White is not a color.)

When I switched to digital film I stopped using a grey card and went to using a flat white card. My logic? In my video training, we white balanced for thirty seconds with a white card to zero the calibration of the camera. Being that digital cameras evolved from video technology, I assumed the same to hold true and it worked out fine. While digital cameras today don't calibrate the same way that video cameras did, photographing that white card told me in editing how far from proper Kelvin I was.
:cantlook: Have faith that the universe will unfold as it should :cool:

Wow, this goes way back to my beginners classes courses. Ages ago! lol.
ok, let's see if I can still remember.
The camera exposure meter reads everything as grey. meaning, if you shoot a black horse, white horse, and a grey horse, the exposure meter in your camera will render all three horses to look like a grey horse.
Ansel Adams is one of the greatest proponents of mastering and controlling your exposure.
Yes, as one of the photographers mentioned above, Mr Adams invented the Zone Technique. It was a most accurate system , I studied it and learned tons from it.
I adored Ansel's works, although I still have yet to create something that resembles anything like his masterpieces,perharps when I am his age, lol.
(for my latest effort, see photo enclosed.. the background of the snow in shadow would more or less be placed in zone V)

When , or how do you use a grey card?
What you do is to place the card in the position of similar lighting where your subject is, (eg. if you're shooting something and it's miles down ) you take a grey card reading off a lighting area that is similar.
What your camera exposure meter says, will be the correct exposure to set.
I don't carry a grey card, as I used to , when I was studying the Zone Technique, or teaching. But you can find lots of objects that pretty much work like a grey card.
the road for example. and you set the EV compensation .
what i mean is, eg. if the grey you read is darker , you set the EV +- down.
if the grey is whiter, you set the EV +- up.
i hope this helps.
it's rather difficult trying to explaining all this in a flash.

I suggest you get the Zone Technique from Ansel Adams, and read it.
Even if you cannot understand or digest the whole series,
you will be a more knowledgeable photographer in the long run.
Well, that's to my own experience. Good Luck.

mtp
I SHOOT PEOPLE FOR FUN AND MONEY
you provide the character, and i will take care of the rest to capture your persona.

A few points to correct.

If you mix all the paints together you will get black, not gray. Pigments do the opposite of light. Mix all the colors of light together you get white, not grey here either. As stated you can get cards of a lot of shades. Most cards are a common standard, printed at 18% as it is halfway between 100% black and 100% white. This allows the camera to be ballenced in the available light you are using to capture an image. It allows the same level of detail to trail off as the light gets brighter or darker in thier respective part of the image.

Also the gray card IS about color as well. Most likely it is the only thing in a shoot where the color is a known and repeatable color. As stated above different lights will cast the image one way or the other. And if you have no reference in the image you are just making a guess when correcting it. But if you have 1 frame with the card you can now calibrate the rest to an exact standard for that series of shots.

As far as not using it now you have gone digital.... to me that is like a cab driver saying he no longer need his car. With it you can adjust your color ballence in the camera and not have to worry about it later. The farther upstream you make thies corrections the better.

Digital or film anybody can pick up a camera and shoot away, they all have the automatic mode, they have had it for more then 20 years. But what makes them a photographer, is them knowing how to use the tools to thier advantage and create an image, rather than just a photo.

And as for Mr. Adams, Yes he was a good photographer. But if you really studied him, you would have found he was a master of the darkroom more than the camera. NONE of his published shots are straight from the camera. He is the originator of "heavy processing"

I can go on all day just about the grey card, but ill stop here, as im sure most will just blow over such a long post.

Hi Malcolm;

When the grey card came onto the field, Tungsten, Mercury vapor, sodium vapor, LED, flourescent, and most of the other styles of lights we have today were just a g;immer in someones eye. We now have filters to balance these forms of light. The grey card is an item that is designed to be used in sunlight, and yes, with black and white film. As for the shade of the card, like I said, it comes from mixing all colors. If you mix pure white and pure black, you will have a shade of 50 percent grey. I have no other way of explaining it. The grey card is just the way to fool the light meter. The cameras of yesterday didn't have the fancy settings, such auto white balance, of todays digital cameras. Even sunlight can change the hues of film pictures. Shooting a photograph in, say, early morning or late evening, will give the photograph a much warmer almost orange tone, while shooting at noon on a sunny day will cause harsh lighting and strong shadows.

By the way, I don't find your insight confrontational, I find it refreshing. Thank you.

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Total results: 16
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