Total results: 34 Pages: 1 | 2 [ 2] |
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 ID: 186257 Posts: 305 | Date: 2007-04-19 07:04 i mean when i try to make a close-up shot dof often happens to be not wide
enough? is there any tricks for that? i'm amateur, so could anyone explain this
in simple words?  |
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 ID: 185806 Posts: 411 | Date: 2007-04-19 07:12 I'm assuming when you say DOF you mean distance of focus.....I would imagine if
your trying a close up and it's not focusing properly then your usnig the wrong
lense or else have zoomed too much if your using a basic camera....somebody else
will probably tell me I'm wrong and give you proper advice but I'm thinking
either zoom out a bit or else try and find a slightly different part of the
object to focus on or get a lense with a smaller focal lenght....sometimes you
will find if the part you are trying to focus on is too reflective it can throw
the focus off as well but that can be down to the camera too....all lenses have
a minimum focal lenght thou so its probably just a matter of getting the right
lenseWe Don't Take Risks to Escape Life!!
We Take Risks To Prevent Life Escaping Us!! |
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ID: 186257 Posts: 305 | Date: 2007-04-19 07:16 actually i ment "depth of field", i guess that's how it's called. i mean some
part of the shot is in focus, but i would like it to be wider in depth. i'm not
really sure how to explain this  |
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 ID: 185837 Posts: 336 | Date: 2007-04-19 07:16 Easy... tripod and long exposure, or else use a ring flash
Of course not so easy if it is a little crawling beastie you are wanting to
photograph  ***** Spring approaches and soon the fairies will awaken ***** |
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ID: 185806 Posts: 411 | Date: 2007-04-19 07:17 Ah right yes I get what your saying now....well emmm I can't think how to
explain how to fix that problem right now....fairydreams always seem to know
waht hes talking about maybe you'll be lucky and he'll drop by and give some
advice or else wait for charles to come on he is always a fountain of knowledgeWe Don't Take Risks to Escape Life!!
We Take Risks To Prevent Life Escaping Us!! |
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ID: 186257 Posts: 305 | Date: 2007-04-19 07:45 thank you guys, i can try longer exposure and
i'm still open to suggestions  |
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ID: 185837 Posts: 336 | Date: 2007-04-19 07:56 Just as an idea... sometimes my exposure may be 30 seconds or so. Also, if you
do that, it is best to trigger the shot either using the timer or remotely as
the shutter press will cause some wobble.
Changing ISO equivalent doesn't really give very much and the quality loss isn't
really worth it.
So really, try Aperture priority and see just how long you need to wait ***** Spring approaches and soon the fairies will awaken ***** |
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ID: 185837 Posts: 336 | Date: 2007-04-19 08:35 Simon's Photography:
....fairydreams
always seem to know waht hes talking about
Wish I did  ***** Spring approaches and soon the fairies will awaken ***** |
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ID: 186257 Posts: 305 | Date: 2007-04-19 08:36 i guess i'll spend my evening reading the manual thank you again |
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 ID: 183878 Posts: 1175 | Date: 2007-04-19 11:22 Here's Chaaaaarles!
Depth of field is a function of aperture. Setting the shutter for a longer
exposure will do nothing unless it is programmed to adjust the aperture at the
same time.
If your camera is older it might have a ring on the lens with f-stops from 1.8
to 16, otherwise your newer electronic cameras may have a setting that is
labeled as AV standing for Aperture Value. Very often the cameras sold to
amateurs will have rather limited values. The ISO range will be small, the
choices of shutter speed setting will be fewer and the AV choices will start at
f4.5 or 6.3 and be variable depending on the length to which the lens can
zoom.
What does that mean in terms of Depth of Field. The lower the f or AV number,
the shallower the DOF. The higher the number, the greater the DOF.
However, as you get closer to your subject, either in extending your lens or
walking up to the subject, the DOF becomes more narrow. This is one of the
reasons that portrait lenses are usually longer than standard lens. They allow
you to be far enough away that the DOF will be sufficient to contain all or most
of your subject, but with a perspective that reduces visual distortion of the
subject's features.
Old time news photographers had a rule of thumb 1/250th of a second, f-11 and be
there. The 1/250s was fast enough to stop most action and the f-11 setting had
enough DOF to include almost everything in a scene in relatively sharp focus.
Most lenses have a close focus limit. To photgraph small objects requires that
your amateur camera has a Macro setting--that flower symbol, or an advanced
camera like an SLR has a lens capable of close focussing or a special macro lens
that can be attached (or a magnifying filter that screws in front of a normal
lens). Where you can make a tight facial portrait and use a setting of f-1.8 to
5.6 and get what you want of a face in focus, the same setting at macro length
just a few inches from the subject will have a DOF of one or two millimeters at
best. Say, just the eye of a bug rather than the whole bug.
You have to close down your apertrure for maximum DOF to f-16, 22 or 32 and that
means that you have to lower your shutter speed to keep the proper exposure.
The human body becomes too shaky at that point because under 1/4 of a second
most people will have camera shake from their heartbeat, if nothing else.
Thus, a camera support or tripod and/or additional light, either flood or flash.
A ringlight can be useful, but not easy to come by and possibly expensive. one
or two inexpensive flashes with either built-in slave or mounted on a slave
adapter can help to bring more light on a subject, but the amount of stuff you
have to use will increase and the costs will add up.
If you can be more specific as to what you are trying to shoot and where and
under what lighting conditions, I might be more helpful.If I haven't been there, I'm still planning on going!
If I haven't done it, I've still got time to try! |
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ID: 183878 Posts: 1175 | Date: 2007-04-19 12:36 I should add that you will probably have to use manual focus and understand that
whereever is your sharpest point of focus that DOF will extend toward the lens
about 1/3 less than behind it.
Say you are shooting a bug, if you focus on a three millimeter bug at its
closest point to you and your DOF is also three MM, then the rear end of the bug
will be out of focus. So you select a focus point slightly behind the closest
part of the bug but not farther back than the first 1/3 of the bug and your
chances of getting the whole bug inside the DOF is greater.If I haven't been there, I'm still planning on going!
If I haven't done it, I've still got time to try! |
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ID: 183878 Posts: 1175 | Date: 2007-04-19 12:37 A bug. but not the best shot, just an example of the difficulties. The wings are
moving as is the bumblebee. I could only get so close, so this is about 1/20th
of the original frame.If I haven't been there, I'm still planning on going!
If I haven't done it, I've still got time to try! |
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 ID: 185214 Posts: 1299 | Date: 2007-04-19 14:16 Im confuzzled... what exactly is depth of field?
I know im only starting photography but i probally should know this Howdy.I'm a 18 year old half asian from Ireland who really would love to get with an agency who can get her exposure or anything please look at my profile and get back to me |
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ID: 183878 Posts: 1175 | Date: 2007-04-19 15:09 Thanks Tekhanei.
Cindy,
Depth of field is the zone that is in focus when you take a picture. It is
variable according to how close or far you are from your subject and by how wide
or closed down the iris in your camera lens is.
Rule of thumb: on a bright sunny day with sun behind your shoulder, film in
camera or digital ISO set at 400, your camera should be set at approximately
1/500 of a second at f-16. If that is the case, everything from about 4 feet in
front of you to infinity will appear to be sharply focused in your print or the
image you see on screen.
But if you are shooting a portrait indoors with good window light, your shutter
speed will be slower and the aperture will be set at f-5.6. If you are focused
on the eyes, then the tip of the nose and the hair behind the ears and
everything in between will look sharp in your final image (but it may not look
that way through your viewfinder because on an slr camera the iris is always
wide open for viewing, it only shuts down when the shutter is snapped). But
anything past the head or in front of the head of your subject will not be in
focus--that's outside the depth of field.If I haven't been there, I'm still planning on going!
If I haven't done it, I've still got time to try! |
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ID: 185214 Posts: 1299 | Date: 2007-04-19 15:22 Oh right.. haha thats why my photos ever have good depth in them.
Gotta keep messing around with the settings more i think!
thanks charlesHowdy.I'm a 18 year old half asian from Ireland who really would love to get with an agency who can get her exposure or anything please look at my profile and get back to me |
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ID: 183878 Posts: 1175 | Date: 2007-04-19 16:54 Vylune, what kind of camera are you using? What lens does it have?
Right off I see you have focussed on the very front of the shell and you can see
by the amount of cloth that is in focus to the front is about 1/3 of the length
of the shell, so moving the focus point to the 4th or 5th ring of the shell
still will not have the whole shell in focus unless you close the lens down to a
smaller aperture.
If you have an AV setting of 5.6 set it to 11, but first I should know the
details of the camera, I think. I don't want to steer you wrong.If I haven't been there, I'm still planning on going!
If I haven't done it, I've still got time to try! |
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| Date: 2007-04-19 17:00 Great advice from Charles as usual, I'm a big fan of the creative use of DOF (
plus, I love bugs ) , Ian |
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ID: 186257 Posts: 305 | Date: 2007-04-20 02:04 i use Pentax K100D. pretty smart thing but i don't use its all
possibilities...thanks to you i know were to start learning and
the lens is 18-55mm, f-3.5/5.6, apparently these parameters don't say much to
me |
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Total results: 34 Pages: 1 | 2 [ 2] |
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